Everest Base Camp Trek Day 11 – Namche to Phakding

Our last glimpse of Everest on the Everest Base Camp Trek | www.noordinarynomad.com

You can read all of my posts about the Everest Base Camp trek here!

I woke up sore today, my leg muscles aching after our huge hike the day before. Luckily today was a shorter day and we expected to reach Phakding before lunch time. After I had an apple pancake for breakfast, we all started out at around 8:30am.

Leaving Namche Bazaar on the Everest Base Camp Trek | www.noordinarynomad.com
Leaving Namche Bazaar on a beautiful sunny day

Today’s hike on the Everest Base Camp trek was made up of a lot of downhill stairs – something that I wasn’t looking forward to with how sore my legs were! It was soon obvious that the peak trekking season was getting well and truly underway, as there were heaps more trekkers coming up towards Namche compared to how many we had encountered on the way up. There were also tons of dzokyo and mule trains bringing up supplies for the teahouses further up the trail.

Our final police check point on the Everest Base Camp Trek | www.noordinarynomad.com
Deepak sorting out our permits at the final police checkpoint before the end of the trek
Mule train on the Everest Base Camp Trek | www.noordinarynomad.com
One of the many long mule trains we passed
Porter resting on the Everest Base Camp Trek | www.noordinarynomad.com
A porter having a rest on his way to taking supplies up the mountain – check out that massive load!

We had a reasonably uneventful trip down, although one of my knees was getting sorer and sorer – I was not used to tackling this many stairs! Luckily I had my trekking pole to lean on and help me hobble down the stairs. We stopped off at a rest stop and were rewarded with one last final glimpse of Everest as it was a clear sunny day. We stopped for a while to enjoy our last look at the majestic peak before continuing on towards Phakding.

Our last glimpse of Everest on the Everest Base Camp Trek | www.noordinarynomad.com
Sadly, the last we’d see of Everest in person!

About 30 minutes outside Phakding, I also managed to roll my ankle – it was just not my day! I hadn’t injured it too badly, it was just enough pain to be annoying. Finally we arrived at the Beer Garden Lodge (where we had also stayed on our first night) in Phakding at around 12:30pm, and ordered lunch straight away. I had a potato chilly – probably the spiciest meal I had eaten on the trail and completely delicious! We tried to use some wifi, but the connection dropped out and wouldn’t come back no matter what the staff tried, so we abandoned that idea.

We soon found that our porters and the teahouse staff had all relocated to a small pool hall down below the teahouse, so we joined them for a few games of pool. Even though most of them did not speak much English, and we certainly didn’t speak Nepali, we all had a great time.

Beer Garden Lodge Phakding common room | www.noordinarynomad.com
Back to the dining room of the Beer Garden Lodge in Phakding

After a couple of hours the teahouse staff had to go back upstairs to start preparing for dinner, so we went back up to the dining room to play some cards and relax. Deepak and Anjun headed into town to celebrate the big Hindu festival of Dashain that was on, while Kabindra, being the youngest, stayed behind to take our dinner orders. I had a huge spaghetti bolognese which really hit the spot. We then had a bit of a surprise for dessert – instead of the fresh apple slices that our team had prepared for us every night for dinner so far, they had made the remaining apples into little fritters!

Kabindra headed off to join the Dashain celebrations while we played cards to finish off the night. We went back to our room to relax and do some reading until we were tired. We would only have a short 3 hours of trekking to Lukla tomorrow for our very last day of the trek!

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2 Replies to “Everest Base Camp Trek Day 11 – Namche to Phakding”

  1. I have always loved the idea of doing an Everest Base Camp trek, but I can’t imagine how sore I would be every day–or having get up and hike each and every day on sore legs. I guess in that sense I’m probably too much of a wimp for such a long hike 🙂

    1. Never say never! My legs weren’t actually that sore until the last couple of days, dealing with the altitude was probably the most difficult part.

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